By Katie Rapone,
BearLeek in RiNo (2611 Walnut Street) may present a modest exterior at street level, but a short walk downstairs reveals a vibrant, design-driven restaurant that’s adding new energy to one of Denver’s most active redevelopment corridors.
Chef Harrison Porter debuted BearLeek in July 2025—a culinary memoir shaped by the breadth of his experiences in restaurants around the world, where nostalgia, curiosity, and creativity intersect. The name, inspired by the German word for ramp, bärlauch, symbolizes renewal, growth, and new beginnings and honors Porter’s journey—a tribute to the chefs and mentors who shaped him. Together with co-owners Rema Maaliki (CDC) and Carlos Hugo Meza (Beverage Director), Porter transforms years of collective culinary journeys into a menu that is both deeply personal and delightfully unexpected.
“BearLeek is a reflection of the people, places, and kitchens that have influenced me,” shares Porter. “It’s the culmination of my time cooking in New York City, Melbourne, and Peru—each place leaving its mark on how I approach flavor, technique, sourcing, and hospitality. Alongside Maaliki, who proudly draws from her Palestinian and Lebanese roots, we’re excited to create a space where cultures come together—a place where we cook with curiosity, learn from each other, and have a lot of fun doing it.”
Design
The space was designed in collaboration with Kevin Nguyen of Denver-based Regular Architecture. The firm is founded on the core principle that design, which meets client needs and is in harmony with its surrounding context, can enrich the environment and improve people’s lives. BearLeek feels like a hidden NYC underground hotspot, alive with the creative pulse of Denver’s RiNo district. Beneath the glow of electric blue neon, guests step into the dining room where street art influences pop against moody tones and rich textures, anchored by a mural that honors the dynamic spirit of the surrounding arts community. Warm, intentional light fixtures add depth and character to the otherwise minimalist décor.
“When it came to designing the lighting at BearLeek, we worked closely with Kevin Nguyen of Regular Architecture to design a space that felt dark and moody, yet kept the attention on the dining experience, highlighting the middle of the table, bringing the food into focus, but still creating an intimate experience. The blue lights over the tables on one side are also sound-dampening, showcasing both form and function. On the other half of the restaurant, working closely with Kevin to develop, the red lights are custom-designed to look like cigarettes, a nod to the Smoke Breaks art installation we have,” says Porter.
Diners are invited to see Denver through Porter’s eyes in Smoke Breaks, an intimate art series created in partnership with local photographer Jeff Fierberg that captures quiet corners of the city where Porter has paused between shifts—moments of reflection, creativity, and connection. At the center of it all, a 14-seat community table hums with the energy of shared meals and conversation, embodying the belief that dining is best experienced together. For those seeking a more intimate experience, the eight-seat, raw concrete chef’s counter offers a front-row seat to the craft and care unfolding.
Food and Beverage
BearLeek’s menus undergo regular updates based on fresh ingredient availability and Chef Porter’s own creativity. Porter and Maaliki integrate a sense of play and surprise into each dish—take the Koji Fried Chicken, a dish inspired by one of Porter’s outposts in Melbourne, where a koji brine transforms the familiar with umami-rich depth, and green Sichuan orange beurre blanc, fennel, and bonito nori salt come together to deliver even more complexity.
“We want the menu to echo something familiar—just enough to draw you in—but then surprise you,” says Maaliki. “It’s about recognition with a twist, comfort seen through a more curious lens. We approach each dish with intention, but never without a sense of play. Creativity is our foundation, and the more deliberately we build on it, the more room we find to do things entirely our own way.”
Cooking together in kitchens over the years, Porter and Maaliki have bonded over global travels, multicultural experiences, and a shared culinary approach. Now, with BearLeek, those journeys culminate in a menu featuring four categories of favorites—Beginnings, Raw-Ish, Middies, and Sharing is Caring—designed to let guests build their own adventures. Standout dishes include the Bread and Butter Bear (house-made brioche rolls with bear-shaped charred leek butter); Hamachi Crudo (Ajo Blanco, Chive Oil, Marcona Almonds, Apple Aleppo Vinaigrette); Perogies (chive potato filling, charred radish, brown butter); and Lamb Shank (parsnip, pickled vegetables, pita).
BearLeek’s bar program is a celebration of local, seasonal ingredients, rooted in sustainable, high-technique cocktails and a focused, yet eclectic wine list. Beverage Director and co-owner Carlos Hugo Meza drives a program grounded in seamless cross-collaboration with the kitchen, stating, “We’re in lockstep with the kitchen — just as the food evolves with the seasons, so does our cocktail menu.”
BearLeek is open Monday to Saturday from 4:30 to 10 p.m.
